Thursday, 19 September 2013


I have this innate fear of the water, of drowning, so it took me a very, very long time to be able to find the courage to move beyond the safety of the shore. I have always been drawn to the waves and always admired the surfers who were able to ride the waves so beautifully, fearlessly and so in synch with the rythm of the ocean so after a few years here in our little Paradise I decided to conquer my fears, get out there on a board and play.
In my mind I still struggle so when I paddle onto waves like this photo above it honestly feels like I am paddling onto monsters like the one John is paddling onto below. My mantra the whole time while I am trying to catch the wave is: "Don't look back, don't look back", which I do most of the time anyway and when I do look back I pull off the wave. Too scared.
So it was extremely frustrating and sad to see these photo's of myself surfing, but it was also uplifting because now I know that the waves are tiny little things, not like the monsters of my mind. Next time I get out there my mantra will be:
You can do it,
You can do it

And maybe stop trying to compare myself to my husband who has no fear and takes on these monsters with a refreshing outlook of fun. 

It is amazing what you can achieve once you set your mind straight.


  1. These photos are making me miss surfing and my island home! love it!

  2. Oh man, your words are so inspiring!
    And those pictures, the life on the waves. All so really awesome. Glad to find your blog

  3. HÄRLIGA bilder:) nu längtar jag till sommaren igen haha...tur jag ska till Franska Rivieran snart.

    Jag önskar dig en skön vilsam helg:)

    LOVE Maria at inredningsvis

  4. how I truly understand you dear Hildi... I've almost drowned three times when I was little and one of the times I was almost dying when some girls saved my life, so deep waters aren't for me since then anymore!I admire your courage and couldn't be prouder of your boldness! way to go! fabulous images!