Monday, 15 November 2010


When I first met my husband about 15 years ago now, I knew nothing about surfing, except the fact that it took place in the waves.

Since then I've been able to try it out for myself and I consider it one of the best sports in the world. It is impossible to explain the rush you feel when you first manage to take off on a wave and ride it without falling off.

For anyone out there wanting to try this sport: DON'T. Unless you can take unlimited time of work to chase these waves and live close to the ocean. See from the moment you do catch that first wave nothing else truly matters. You feel so complete, so free and so full of joy you'll spend the rest of your life searching for that feeling over and over again.

I still consider myself a complete beginner at this sport. (Even though I have been going for about 7-8 years). I am too intimidated to paddle out in the big stuff and like to play on the small, gentler waves and it makes me happy.

Photos are taken by Shannon Burns, Nobu and John Guiney

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